commit be88ba095d4d1ff2f71372217b9d7ac19c2cb441
parent 40516ecfb15f52f8f41c1a3a5649f34fd8056cb3
Author: Ed van Bruggen <ed@edryd.org>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2026 01:11:25 -0500
Add post on B&W film development
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+---
+title: "Developing Black and White Film"
+tags: photo diy film tutorial
+categories: photo
+date: 2026-01-20
+---
+
+One of the best ways to improve your craft of photography is by shooting film.
+Analog photography allows you to focus on what matters: creating good photos.
+Film cameras tend to be very minimalist,
+removing the clutter on modern digital cameras.
+Unless you are doing very technical photography, [^technical]
+the shiny newest specs of a modern digital camera might just be a distraction to get in the way.
+The cost [^cost] of each photo makes you think before you shoot,
+not just capturing everything and hoping for the best. [^snp]
+
+[^technical]: Capturing a speeding race car or timing a bird attacking its prey.
+[^cost]: Both financially and in the time to develop and scan/print each photo.
+[^snp]: Good ol' spray and pray.
+
+However, this advantage of film is also the main downside.
+While a little cost, both in time and money, makes you reconsider if the photo is really worth
+capturing, too expensive and it's impossible to photograph anything.
+
+One way to reduce this cost is to shoot black and white film.
+As a bonus, it also has the effect of improving your photography, even for color photos.
+It's easy to fall back unto a colorful sky or vibrate subject to save a photo,
+but black and white forces you to look at lighting, shapes, and form to make an image great.
+
+To make analog photography even cheaper, you can develop black and white film at home.
+Plus, its actually fairly easy, as long as you have a little bit of patience.
+I have been developing black and white film for over 5 years now, [^1]
+and so far have never had a roll of film without pictures! [^mistake]
+For an $100 initial investment, it quickly pays for itself,
+and produces better results than many industrial scale labs.
+<!-- TODO calculate number of film rolls to pay for itself -->
+
+[^1]: I also just recently attended a film development workshop, so I am confident I have
+ enough experience to teach you my process.
+[^mistake]: I even once opened the back of the camera before rewinding the film by mistake,
+ and still recovered all but the last two images!
+
+# Supplies
+
+0. Roll of black and white film
+ - Exposed with pictures!
+1. Film developer: [Rodinal][devel]
+ - Most B&W film developers would work, but might have subtle characteristics.
+ Rodinal is the most common for stand development and has a long shelf life.
+2. Fixer: [Ilford Rapid][fixer]
+ - Any B&W fixer will work, this is a very common one that works well.
+3. Development tank: [Paterson][tank]
+ - The standard tank used by most. Simple but works very well.
+4. [Large graduated cylinder][big-cylinder]
+5. [Small graduated cylinder][small-cylinder]
+6. Film hanger
+ - Either a purpose built [film hanger][hanger], or a pants hanger.
+7. Binder Clip / Clothespin
+ - Used to weigh down the bottom of your film when drying.
+8. Your Nicest Scissors
+ - Make sure they are clean and sharp.
+
+[devel]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/724200-REG/
+[fixer]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253198-REG/
+[tank]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/886586-REG/
+[big-cylinder]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40136-REG/
+[small-cylinder]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40134-REG/
+[hanger]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40128-REG/
+
+## Optional
+
+The above is all you need to get started,
+but here are some additional items which might make your life easier.
+When I started developing film I did not have any of these and still got great results.
+
+1. [Dark bag][bag]
+ - A completely dark room, such as a closet with a towel over the door, can also be used instead.
+ - Make sure there is no light entering, if you can see any light at all that's too much.
+2. [Storage bottle][bottle]
+ - Collapsible air-tight bottle to store your dilution of fixer to be reused.
+3. [Stop bath][stopbath]
+ - Optionally used to wash film after developing to neutralize all the developer.
+ - Or just use water. I do not usually use stop bath and have never had a problem.
+4. [Photo-flo][photoflo]
+ - Wetting agent used after final wash to reduce water marks when film is drying.
+ - Helps especially for film formats larger than 35mm, not necessary for 35mm in my experience.
+5. [Film remover][remover]
+ - A good bottle opener can also be used, or just your hands to pry the film canister apart.
+6. [Stirrer][stirrer]
+ - Handle of wooden spoon also works.
+7. [Hypo check][hypocheck]
+ - Test if fixer is still good.
+ - Add droplets into fixer, if no white clouds fixer is good to use.
+8. Distilled water
+ - If you have particularly hard water where you live, distilled water is ideal.
+ - Also helps ensure the water is room temperature, compared to the tap.
+
+[bag]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1776387-REG/
+[bottle]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1557486-REG
+[stopbath]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27775-REG/
+[photoflo]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/
+[stirrer]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40303-REG/
+[remover]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1822909-REG/
+[hypocheck]: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1362728-REG
+
+# Steps
+
+Below are the instructions for a process called stand development,
+an alternative method to traditional film development.
+It involves using a very small amount of developer highly diluted [^2] and letting it sit mostly
+undisturbed for an hour,
+instead of the usual method of agitating the developer every minute for 8-15 minutes.
+This produces very similar results but works for any film at any ISO
+(even if you pushed/pulled it). [^3]
+This means you do not need to calculate any dilutions or development times,
+and can mix different film types at different ISOs in the same development tank at once.
+Stand development leads to a perceived increase the sharpness and larger tonal range,
+which comes at the cost of decreasing the contrast.
+For traditional development the only thing you need to change is
+the development dilution, time, and number of agitations.
+
+[^2]: Typically 1 to 100 dilution instead of around 1 to 1 or 1 to 4.
+[^3]: This works because the small amount of developer that is in contact with the film gets
+ completely exhausted by the film.
+
+<!-- TODO stand development toggle -->
+<!-- TODO convert to table -->
+
+## 1. Load film into reel
+ - Take film out of canister with film remover.
+ - Must be done in complete darkness.
+ - Trim film lead.
+ - Make it straight and easier to load into reel.
+ - Align the plastic triangle tabs with your thumbs.
+ - Not to be confused with flat tabs on other side (they feel very similar in the dark).
+ - Pass film under the tabs until it passes the ball bearings.
+ - This is by far the most difficult step so practice it a few times on an extra roll of film
+ in the light until you get the hang of it.
+ Then, try it with your eyes closed before doing it for real in the dark.
+ - Twist reel to load film into reel until the end of the film roll is reached.
+ - Cut film from canister
+ - Twist a couple more times to load it all into the reel.
+## 2. Load film into development tank
+ - Place reel onto tube.
+ - Very import as this tube is what keeps light out of the tank.
+ - Place into development tank.
+ - Add funnel on top of tube and seal by twisting until clicked in place.
+ - The development tank is now light tight and can be brought into the light.
+## 3. Mix and pour developer
+ - Add 1 part of developer for 100 part water
+ - eg 6 ml of developer and 600 ml of water.
+ - Minimum of 5ml of developer.
+ - Water should be close to room temperature at 20 ˚C.
+ - Remember to mix dilution with stirrer.
+ - Pour developer into tank and close its lid.
+ - Agitate by slowly rotating and flipping tank for 30 seconds.
+ - Tap tank firmly on table to remove bubbles.
+## 4. Wait 30 mins and agitate developer
+ - Slowly rotate and flip tank for 30 seconds.
+ - Tap firmly.
+## 5. Wait another 30 mins
+ - Prepare fixer dilution while waiting.
+ - Pour out developer.
+## 6. Water/stop bath rinse
+ - Fill tank with cold water or stop bath.
+ - This is to neutralize the developer to prevent it from developing any part of the film more.
+ - Agitate by rotating and inverting tank for 30 seconds.
+ - Remove water/stop bath.
+ - Stop bath is reusable, don't pour down drain.
+## 7. Pour fixer
+ - Keep fixer in for 5 minutes.
+ - Agitate for 30 seconds, then 10 seconds every minute.
+ - Remove fixer.
+ - Fixer is reusable, don't pour down drain.
+ - At this point you are safe to open the tank and check your film.
+ - Your pictures should now be visible!
+ - If unexposed area is not uniform from edge to edge,
+ put back in tank and add more fixer for a few minutes longer.
+## 8. Water wash
+ - Fill tank with water, invert 5 times, then empty
+ - Fill again, invert 10 times, then empty.
+ - Fill, invert 20 times, then empty.
+## 9. Rinse with photo-flo (optional)
+ - Quick 30 seconds of swishing.
+## 10. Hang film to dry
+ - Use clip to weigh down bottom of film roll to prevent it from curling up.
+ - Best to hang them in a dust free area such as the bathroom.
+
+[volmix]: https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=volmix
+
+# Conclusion
+
+After your film finishes drying, you now have your own developed negatives!
+
+All that is needed now is to scan the negatives or print them with an enlarger.
+Stay tuned for the next part where I go over my home made scanning setup using a digital
+camera.
+I also recently printed my first black and white photos in a darkroom,
+so a darkroom tutorial is also in the works.
+
+Happy shooting!
